As the days grow colder and the ground is dampened by autumn mist, a perfect alchemy is brewing underfoot. Out of sight, but not far below the surface, truffles are ripening and sending out their heady fragrance - a perfume so pungent ancient Romans believed they had aphrodisiacal properties.
Whether amorous or simply odiferous, no one can deny the alluring nature of this fickle fungi. Nearly impossible to cultivate, tricky to harvest and regulated by a strict hunting season, the elusive truffle is a master at arousing desire. For those who’ve fallen head over heels for its musky scent, neither the truffle’s limited availability nor its rather exorbitant cost can deter from their longing. On the contrary, the exclusivity only heightens the fervor and anticipation of a yearly rendezvous.
Autumn hails the beginning of the prime truffle season in Italy, and while most people associate it with Alba in Piedmont – famous for its Tartufo Bianco – Tuscany is also home to an abundance of the white Tuber Magnatum. Whether foraged in the wild or harvested from lands planted with oak, beech or hazelnut trees, the Tuscan terroir presents a myriad of options to enjoy the flavors and festivities showcasing this grande dame of cuisine.
Here are just a few of our suggestions on where to savor this sublimely aromatic treat in Tuscany.
San Giovanni d’Asso
Located in Crete Senesi in central Tuscany, the small hamlet of San Giovanni d'Asso dominates a clay cliff on the banks of the Asso River. Its 14th century castle houses Italy’s first truffle museum, a sensorial exhibit with interactive experiences as well as historical and scientific tidbits dedicated to the odiferous edible. During the second and third weekends of November, foodies descend on San Giovanni d’Asso for the annual event, “Mostra Mercato del Tartufo Bianco delle Crete Senesi” (White Truffle Exhibition and Market). An ode to the precious local white truffle, the celebratory occasion features artisanal products, culinary demonstrations, gala dinners, truffle tastings and more. For just 15 euro you can participate in a caccia al tartufo (truffle hunt) with a genuine tartufaio (truffle hunter) and his dog.
Near the medieval town of Montisi, larger groups or families (maximum 7) can book a private farmhouse, Il Poggio, which boasts 360° hilltop views of the bucolic Tuscan countryside.
San Miniato
Another destination for truffle aficionados is the oak tree hills of San Miniato in the province of Pisa. In 1954, one of the world's largest white truffles weighing more than 2.5 kg. was discovered here by a local tartufaio, Arturo, and his dog, Paris. The hefty treasure was donated to the President of the United States, Dwight Eisenhower, and given a spot in the Guinness Book of World Records. San Miniato hosts its own National White Truffle Exhibit during the last three weekends of November. The open-air market showcases fresh truffles and truffle-based products as well as local wines, olive oils, cheese and more. Restaurants around the area feature special menus starring the Tuscan delicacy, and the occasion is marked by a plethora of events including cooking demonstrations by Michelin-starred chefs, art exhibits and music.
Escape the truffle-frenzied crowds by booking a room at Agriturismo Settesoldi. The small farmhouse is tucked away in San Miniato’s hills and offers a quiet retreat ideal for couples. Settesoldi can organize private truffle hunts and holds olive oil tastings as well as cooking classes.
Agriturismo Villa di Moriolo in San Miniato also provides a relaxing getaway in the heart of nature and books excursions with truffle hunters upon request.
If you can’t join the truffle mania in November, don’t worry! In late March another roster of festivities pops up to celebrate the springtime arrival of the Marzuolo truffle – just one more tantalizing reason to visit Tuscany!
Text by Adrienne Baumann ©
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